Heavier gauge strings?

[Martyn]

Anyone know how heavy I can go without experiencing issues with the nut grooves? I'm debating fitting some recently purchased Burns Newtones in .011,.015,.022w,.032,.039,.049 and don't want to find them not wanting to bed down in the grooves or stick halfway etc.
I was planning on fitting them to my strat but was concerned by the warning on the packet that says:
"Due to the unique design of these strings it is paramount that no cutting of excess string is done until wrapped around the tuning post and tuned to pitch."
Well my strat has the slotted posts so strings have to be cut to length first before poking the end of the string down the hole in the post's top, after which they're then wound round the post as usual. If I shorten them first will the wound ones dramatically unwind or something?

[JimN]

.011,.015,.022w,.032,.039,.049

Those gauges are really not heavy; they are on the light side. Truly heavy gauges would start with a top E heavier than 0.13". I would describe 14-60 as heavy (and I have a couple of sets of them here, to be used experimentally). The term 'medium gauge' really means around 13-56 or perhaps 12-52. Anything lighter than 12-52 is light gauge, though that term has become progressively less meaningful over the years, it now being necessary to distinguish 'light" from 'super-light', ultra-light', 'too light to stay in tune', etc. If your Strat already has nut slots cut for 10-46, then it is probable that it will take 11-49 without any problems. Any problems that might occur would be minor, nothing that a quick rub through the slots with some fine emery paper wouldn't solve, especially if followed by a little lubrication of the pencil lead variety - especially in the third string slot.

As for Newtone strings, that warning about not cutting the string applies to many other makes as well. In fact, it's safer to regard it as applying to all wound strings. The reason is that if the string is cut to length without any further precautions, the winding may slip (ie, unravel slightly) on the core; this renders a wound string instantly 'dead', sounding like it's been on the guitar for a year or more.

But you can fit them to a slotted-post tuner. first, push the free end down the hole in the middle of the post and bend the string 90 degrees sideways into the slot before withdrawing it. Note the length of the string beyond the bend. Put another 90 degree bend in the string in the position where you want to cut the string to length (before fitting) and then cut the string the same distance beyond the bend as you had beyond the bend at the end of the string (if you see what I mean). That will stop the wrap from unravelling. It really works.

Hope this helps,

JN

[Martyn]

OK - think I got it. Once I've fitted these to the strat and assuming all's well, I'll record something to compare sounds between these and the Elixir 10s currently fitted.
If I need to slightly modify the nut slots as you describe to accommodate the Nutones and wish later to return to the lighter Elixirs, might the 'looser' slots cause any problems?

Thanks for your advice.
Regards,
Martyn

[cockroach]

You may need to adjust your neck and action, with fitting the heavier string gauges..bridge height, and maybe truss rod adjustment and/or shimming the neck pocket to get the neck angle to body correct...if you just fit 'em and tune up, you may find the action becomes a deal higher and harder to play too...

Changing a worn slotted nut is not in any case a major repair- but generally a small change in string gauge won't make a lot of difference, especially if you follow the advice given so far by JimN.

As the man said , if you were going to say, 13-56 from 8-38 or 9-42, or vice versa...then yes, you might have some fitting and other problems...

[Martyn]

Hi John,
The strings are due for a change anyway so if I fit the Newtones and experience problems I can always fit another set of Elixirs rather than faffing with major settings alterations that could upset the whole shebang.
I have no problems with the Elixirs as they sound good and last a hugely long time before losing any tonal qualities, but I was tempted by the wound third option of the Newtones and slightly heavier gauge all round, hoping for a fuller and more rounded sound than I currently have. My mex strat's very bright and punchy, which I like - as do many others who have played it or listened, but for the earlier Shads material I like the sounds created by guitars with slightly heavier strings. I realise these 11s are still medium light but I figured they might be one step nearer 'that sound' than maybe the 10s with plain third currently fitted.

The packet blurb claims: " A lower tension to pitch lets the string vibrate more freely and gives unsurpassed playability."
This may suggest those extra adjustments might not be necessary - who knows - and until I've tried a set I'll always be wondering . . .

I'll repost here or under the general guitaring section, as it's now not Burns Guitar specifically related, to keep you appraised of progress.

Thanks again, folks, for the advice etc.
Regards,
Martyn

[David Martin]

I've had 11-49 Elixirs and 10-46 on my Marvin with no nut problems...

I've tried Newtones and the ones that I had, whilst exhibiting great initial tone, went off quickly...

Use Fast Fret to preserve them...

[MeBHank]

I've had 11-49 Elixirs and 10-46 on my Marvin with no nut problems...

I've tried Newtones and the ones that I had, whilst exhibiting great initial tone, went off quickly...

Use Fast Fret to preserve them...

David, have you encoutered the practise that I call "snapping" the strings? By this I mean pulling the string fairly high off the fingerboard (but not so tight that you risk breaking the string) and letting go so that it crashes against the frets. Doing that shocks out a lot of the grime and dirt that gets embedded in the windings and extends string life greatly. I can't use Elixirs for the early period tunes as they always sound brand new, too fresh for Shads. Newtones last longer than any uncoated strings I know, but you have to "snap" them to gain the longevity.

J

[suboA21]

Or you could boil them as Hank and Bruce did!!!!! Talk to any 'real' motorcyclist about boiling chains

[roger bayliss]

Anyone know how heavy I can go without experiencing issues with the nut grooves? I'm debating fitting some recently purchased Burns Newtones in .011,.015,.022w,.032,.039,.049 and don't want to find them not wanting to bed down in the grooves or stick halfway etc.
I was planning on fitting them to my strat but was concerned by the warning on the packet that says:
"Due to the unique design of these strings it is paramount that no cutting of excess string is done until wrapped around the tuning post and tuned to pitch."
Well my strat has the slotted posts so strings have to be cut to length first before poking the end of the string down the hole in the post's top, after which they're then wound round the post as usual. If I shorten them first will the wound ones dramatically unwind or something?

Recently upped to a set of Rotosound Purples 12- 54's and they went in my Vintage 57 Strat without any real problems at all. Just eased the 6th string into the nut slot and checked movement back n forth a little no problems. Nice nickel wound string with wound third 24 and fairly bright. Rotosound were used by many recording artists on countless 60's / 70's recording so the blurb goes.. lots of endorsees and they are often forgotton about... made in Sevenoaks, Kent in England for over 50 years now. Still got the 3 springs in the trem and adjusted the claw about 1-2 turns I think it was... and best of all they give a spare 1st string with every set !

[David Martin]

Justin... I don't "crash" my strings.... I just use FastFret... that keeps the strings fresh... (I still have the original strings on my '54 Masterbuilt...)